Hand-dyed Silk Textiles, Clothing, and Accessories by Michelle Li Murphy
Some of the most popular designs in fashion come from the simplest inspirations. Whether it is the cypress tree inspiring the paisley pattern or the melding and molding of precious metals and gems together to create unique pieces of jewelry. The same is true of the designs of Michelle Li Murphy. From an early age, Michelle was well acquainted with nature, having lived in a tent in the Shenandoah Mountains, sailing the seas down the east coast to the Caribbean, raising honeybees in Oklahoma, as well as living in a cabin alongside the Susquehanna river. Michelle notes, “My love of nature and a deep connection to its wild and unruly beauty stems from these early experiences.”
Michelle was also introduced to the world of fashion and artisan wares early on, having attended her first trade show with her father at the age of six. Owner of a shoe shop called Murphy’s Magic Shoes, Michelle’s father was an exceptionally skilled craftsman; a creator of custom shoes and also leather belts, brass buckles, brass lampshades, and brass and copper jewelry. He also invented a handy little bag called the Pocket on a String. His craft led him to cotton neckties which caught the attention of Mallory & Church, the second largest menswear company in the country at the time. The company asked Michelle’s father to try hand-dying silk ties, aiming to create a line of unique designs. The ties were wildly popular and a twenty-something Michelle traveled out to her father’s business to learn the dying process and to assist in growing the endeavor. Eventually Murphy Artisan ties expanded beyond the reach of the corporate atmosphere of Mallory & Church and became an independent label.
Years later, while still involved in the family business, Michelle established the BARBARIANHEAD design studio in Brooklyn, NY, after realizing that her passion, and subsequent success, was to be found in fashion design. The inception of Michelle’s line of hand-dyed scarves and silk cocktail dresses was at the BARBARIANHEAD studio. Michelle’s designs and career, as well as a change of location to raise her daughter, brought her just north of Baltimore where she continues to create to this day.
The process of painting the silk is rather complex, and one can certainly see the art in it. Starting with stretched white silk, the base color is applied by hand using fiber reactive dyes which allows the color to become a part of the fibers. Michelle then takes a Japanese sumi brush and dye, which has been thickened with tree sap or seaweed gel, and paints the designs on the silk. The piece is ready after being steam set and washed to remove excess dye.
Michelle takes a lot of pride in her work and explains how personal style is more important to her than fashion. “We are the peacocks I guess!” says Michelle. Someone’s style says a lot about the person and it is also a thing of confidence. Fashion is a perpetually undulating thing, changing with accordance to the times, but personal style evolves with the individual.
Michelle Murphy
